A few days ago the Ecclesiastical Sewing Studio announced the release of three new Latin Mass Chasuble sewing patterns. The chasuble patterns have lots of design details with crosses and bands and trim. While describing the detail of the chasuble, we used the term “Orphrey Band.” Many of those who have been following along with our blog over the years know what orphrey bands are, but if you are new to Ecclesiastical Sewing, the term orphrey band may be unfamiliar to you.
Orphrey band is the term used to describe the decorative strips of fabric that are used on vestments. They have a long history that dates back centuries. Augustus Welby Northmore Pugin provides this definition of an orphrey:
It signifies a band or bands of gold and rich embroidery, affixed to vestments. Its Latin name (aurifrusium) expresses accurately its meaning and etymology.
Pugin goes on to explain the ornamented ancient garments worn by the Romans with their auraclavae – the narrow purple bands or clavi. Different groups of people wore garments with different sized bands. He also speaks of the Chrysuclavus found in ecclesiastical writers as being the same word. Both words have the same meaning which is orphrey, according to Pugin. These orphrey bands were rich ornamentations with gold or silver texture that were sewn on to the Church vestments. Many old church records describe the vestments with orphrey bands in their collections and priests would bequeath their vestments when they died.
While these ancient vestments had rich and elaborate hand embroidery that cannot be matched today, we do have richly woven fabrics that create wonderful orphrey bands.
This is the Red/Gold St. Hubert Brocatelle Fabric. It is called a Brocatelle because it is woven with metallic gold threads. These threads give a rich luster and shimmer to the fabric.
St. Hubert’s has a flowing vine motif that runs the length of the fabric. The vine creates a scrolling circle that is filled with a lattice flower motif. The linear pattern of St. Hubert makes is a great selection for use as orphrey bands on Chasubles, Altar Frontals, Copes, and many other items.
Using the linear design of the fabric, orphrey bands have been cut that are around 7″ wide. This width works well on larger vestment items such as an altar frontal or the column orphrey bands of a chasuble. 7-inches is a bit too wide for use on a “Y” orphrey chasuble. It makes the orphrey look thick, heavy, and clunky.
To prepare the orphrey band, the fabric has been cut and the edges have been run through the serger. Trim options have been reviewed. Since the fabric has more of an antique gold color, the St. Paul Braid has been selected as the gold colors look well together.
St. Paul Braid is 3/4″ wide. It is a flexible narrow braid, which means it will turn corners easily, or more easily than some of the other trims. St. Paul Braid is available in a wide variety of colors including Gold, Red, Green, Blue, Violet, Rose, and Black.
To prepare for applying the orphrey bands, a ruler and marking pen or chalk wheel was used to mark a line about 1/2″ from the serged edge of the fabric. The trim has been placed along the line and has been pinned in place. Notice how close the pins are placed. The close spacing helps to ensure the trim will not shift prior to stitching it in place. Once the trim is in place, a line of stitching is placed a scant 1/8″ from the edge.
We stitch the trim to the orphrey edge to create a unit and then apply this to the chasuble or other vestment items. There are several ways of doing this. The goal is to eliminate extra stitching where it is not needed, or where it may cause the fabric and trim to pucker. The secondary goal is to minimize the rows of stitching in case any of it needs to be removed or straightened. And yes, even we need to re-stitch trim on orphrey bands on occasion.
Brocatelle fabrics are fun to work with. The price may be a bit intimidating the first time you cut into fabric that costs this per yard. So, before just jumping in and cutting the fabric, it helps to take time and study the pattern motifs and repeats. St. Hubert has a directional vine that travels the length of the fabric. Most of the time, we cut the orphrey bands along the length. But for this project, we will have vertical and horizontal orphrey bands which will create a “T” or cross-shaped orphrey. The band in the above photo has been cut on the cross grain. Notice how the pattern in the fabric creates a nice diaper or diagonal effect? For this project, the orphrey bands can be matched in both directions. This is important as the fabric was not wide enough to cut the entire cross shape from the fabric without seams.
Finally, the finished orphrey band! And there is one more little detail to note about the St. Hubert Brocatelle. The fabric can be used on either side! You can use the color dominant side or the gold dominant side as the right side. You might even mix the two sides together!
The St. Hubert liturgical fabric comes in a number of colors including White/Gold, Gold/Gold, Red/Gold, Blue/Gold, and Black/Gold. The Red/Gold pairs well with white, blue, and gold as a few options. Now that we have spent time looking at this lovely fabric and talking about how to use this an orphrey band, can’t your mind begin to see how it will look like as the trim detail on the chasubles pictured below?
Roman Chasuble Pattern
Montastic Chasuble pattern.
Please visit our website Ecclesiastical Sewing for more information regarding the St. Hubert liturgical fabric, as well as our other liturgical fabrics and a full line of sewing patterns for making church vestments.
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Church Vestment Sewing Patterns
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Chasuble Sewing Patterns
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Priest Stole Sewing Patterns and more
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Ecclesiastical Sewing has the largest selection of church vestments sewing patterns. Our patterns have been created by our professional pattern makers. A truly excellent finished garment begins with an excellent pattern. The very same patterns that are used daily in our studio to create our lovely church vestments are available for your own personal use.
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So begin your next church vestment sewing project with the end in mind - that perfect finished garment. It all starts with a great pattern!
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Please shop our complete line of church vestment sewing patterns for your next project!
\n\n
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At Ecclesiastical Sewing, we want to come alongside those who desire to sew liturgical vestments for their clergy, and items for their churches and sanctuaries. Our books and patterns provide the details you need for crafting your clergy stoles, priest chasubles, custom stoles, and many more fabric items. You will enjoy browsing vestment patterns, priest stole patterns and other creative varieties. We also allow you to choose the colors to design and create your own custom stoles, chasubles, copes, hoods, or paraments. Skip to Collection
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Crosses | Religious Embroidery Designs
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Browse a wide selection of religious embroidered crosses, cross stitches, appliques, and other digital machine embroidery files for religious embroidery designs.
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Also browse our selection of Applique Designs related to crosses and other religious and church embroidery symbols and events.
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Beautiful dupioni silk fabric by the yard and in dozens of colors, perfect for any place of worship and ecclesiastical style. We offer only premium quality dupioni silk fabrics that are soft yet still strong.
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Available in a wide range of sizes from 3/4\" wide to up to 10\" x 15\"! From small to large. Available finishes include metallic gold in bright, white and rose gold tones, and rayon colors in gold, red, white, blue, and many more!
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","publicationCount":11,"availablePublicationCount":11,"productsManuallySortedCount":30,"productsAutomaticallySortedCount":0},{"id":"gid://shopify/Collection/60434371","seo":{"title":"Tassels & Tasseled Cords | Ecclesiastical Sewing","description":"Browse our collection of decorative tassels for church paraments and religious decor. Shop tassled girdles and cords used to secure religious vestments. "},"title":"Tassels - Church Trims & Notions","handle":"tassel-fringe-trims","ruleSet":{"rules":[{"column":"TYPE","relation":"CONTAINS","condition":"Tassels"}],"appliedDisjunctively":false},"sortOrder":"ALPHA_ASC","updatedAt":"2024-10-28T17:15:00Z","description":"Tassels and Tassel Fringe Trims Go To Collection Shop a variety of church tassels & tassel fringe trims steeped in Biblical tradition with several colors such as gold, black, red and more. All our Ecclesiastical Tassels are Produced by expert liturgical fabric makers. Don't forget to browse our liturgical fabric in addition to church trims and notions, religious embroidery, slate frames, clergy vestments, chasubles and more. We also offer Custom Order Requests.","storefrontId":"gid://shopify/Collection/60434371","productsCount":7,"templateSuffix":"tassels","descriptionHtml":"
Shop a variety of church tassels & tassel fringe trims steeped in Biblical tradition with several colors such as gold, black, red and more. All our Ecclesiastical Tassels are Produced by expert liturgical fabric makers.
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Ecclesiastical Sewing fabric provides unmatched creativity,quality, and story being hand-selected from the best fabricmanufacturers around the world. Clothe your sanctuary inthis one-of-kind, reverent, and honoring material as youcreate church vestments for your worship community. Superior-quality church linen and religious fabric is a specialized niche that is not readily available at fabric stores or even online. Whether you are seeking fine, high-quality liturgical fabric for designing new items or you need to refresh the existing clerical garment items or paraments of your church, it takes a special selection of church linen —the kind of ecclesiastical fabrics you will find in our collection. Our church linen & religious fabrics range from fabric tapestries and piece-dyed brocades or yarn-dyed brocades, to damasks, lurex brocade and brocatelles, to silks and silk dupioni, and much more. Our customer service is excellent and we ship worldwide! Don't forget to contact us for custom order requests.Skip to Collection Read more //","storefrontId":"gid://shopify/Collection/51946371","productsCount":71,"templateSuffix":"all-fabrics","descriptionHtml":"
Fine European Church Linen, Liturgical & Ecclesiastical Fabrics to Adorn the Seasons of the Church Year!
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Ecclesiastical Sewing fabric provides unmatched creativity, quality, and story being hand-selected from the best fabric manufacturers around the world. Clothe your sanctuary in this one-of-kind, reverent, and honoring material as you create church vestments for your worship community.
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\n
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Superior-quality church linen and religious fabric is a specialized niche that is not readily available at fabric stores or even online. Whether you are seeking fine, high-quality liturgical fabric for designing new items or you need to refresh the existing clerical garment items or paraments of your church, it takes a special selection of church linen —the kind of ecclesiastical fabrics you will find in our collection. Our church linen & religious fabrics range from fabric tapestries and piece-dyed brocades or yarn-dyed brocades, to damasks, lurex brocade and brocatelles, to silks and silk dupioni, and much more. Our customer service is excellent and we ship worldwide! Don't forget to contact us for custom order requests. Skip to Collection
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\n","publicationCount":11,"availablePublicationCount":11,"productsManuallySortedCount":0,"productsAutomaticallySortedCount":71},{"id":"gid://shopify/Collection/407334387968","seo":{"title":null,"description":null},"title":"Appliques","handle":"appliques-1","ruleSet":{"rules":[{"column":"TAG","relation":"EQUALS","condition":"Appliques"},{"column":"TITLE","relation":"CONTAINS","condition":"Appliques"}],"appliedDisjunctively":true},"sortOrder":"BEST_SELLING","updatedAt":"2024-11-12T16:50:04Z","description":"","storefrontId":"gid://shopify/Collection/407334387968","productsCount":24,"templateSuffix":"","descriptionHtml":"","publicationCount":11,"availablePublicationCount":11,"productsManuallySortedCount":0,"productsAutomaticallySortedCount":24},{"id":"gid://shopify/Collection/407337533696","seo":{"title":null,"description":null},"image":{"id":"gid://shopify/CollectionImage/1684670349568","altText":"Appliques - Ecclesiastical Sewing","originalSrc":"https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0879/4990/collections/appliques-ecclesiastical-sewing.png?v=1718308517"},"title":"Appliques","handle":"appliques-2","ruleSet":null,"sortOrder":"BEST_SELLING","updatedAt":"2024-11-12T16:50:04Z","description":"","storefrontId":"gid://shopify/Collection/407337533696","productsCount":63,"templateSuffix":"appliques","descriptionHtml":"","publicationCount":11,"availablePublicationCount":11,"productsManuallySortedCount":0,"productsAutomaticallySortedCount":63},{"id":"gid://shopify/Collection/362515587","seo":{"title":"Books | Ecclesiastical Sewing","description":"Shop our collection of books from church history and liturgical art to embroidery designs and vestment making guides. "},"title":"Books","handle":"books","ruleSet":{"rules":[{"column":"TYPE","relation":"EQUALS","condition":"Books"}],"appliedDisjunctively":true},"sortOrder":"MANUAL","updatedAt":"2024-11-12T02:25:06Z","description":"","storefrontId":"gid://shopify/Collection/362515587","productsCount":7,"templateSuffix":"","descriptionHtml":"","publicationCount":11,"availablePublicationCount":11,"productsManuallySortedCount":7,"productsAutomaticallySortedCount":0},{"id":"gid://shopify/Collection/362517379","seo":{"title":"Priest Religious Vestment Sewing Patterns | Ecclesiastical Sewing","description":"Church Priest Vestment and Stole Patterns. Sew your own religious garments with church vestment sewing patterns for stoles, chasubles, Copes, Cottas, Surplices, dalmatics, chalice veils, and burses for pastors, priests, altar servers, and clergy. The most complete line of church vestment sewing patterns available. "},"image":{"id":"gid://shopify/CollectionImage/1684670742784","altText":"Church Priest Vestments and Stole Sewing Patterns - Ecclesiastical Sewing","originalSrc":"https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0879/4990/collections/church-priest-vestments-and-stole-sewing-patterns-ecclesiastical-sewing.jpg?v=1718308520"},"title":"Church Priest Vestments and Stole Sewing Patterns","handle":"vestment-patterns","ruleSet":{"rules":[{"column":"TYPE","relation":"EQUALS","condition":"Sewing Patterns"}],"appliedDisjunctively":true},"sortOrder":"MANUAL","updatedAt":"2024-11-13T13:45:15Z","description":"Church Vestment Sewing Patterns Chasuble Sewing Patterns Priest Stole Sewing Patterns and more Ecclesiastical Sewing has the largest selection of church vestments sewing patterns. Our patterns have been created by our professional pattern makers. A truly excellent finished garment begins with an excellent pattern. The very same patterns that are used daily in our studio to create our lovely church vestments are available for your own personal use. So begin your next church vestment sewing project with the end in mind - that perfect finished garment. It all starts with a great pattern! Please shop our complete line of church vestment sewing patterns for your next project! At Ecclesiastical Sewing, we want to come alongside those who desire to sew liturgical vestments for their clergy, and items for their churches and sanctuaries. Our books and patterns provide the details you need for crafting your clergy stoles, priest chasubles, custom stoles, and many more fabric items. You will enjoy browsing vestment patterns, priest stole patterns and other creative varieties. We also allow you to choose the colors to design and create your own custom stoles, chasubles, copes, hoods, or paraments.Skip to Collection Read more //","storefrontId":"gid://shopify/Collection/362517379","productsCount":92,"templateSuffix":"","descriptionHtml":"
Church Vestment Sewing Patterns
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Chasuble Sewing Patterns
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Priest Stole Sewing Patterns and more
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Ecclesiastical Sewing has the largest selection of church vestments sewing patterns. Our patterns have been created by our professional pattern makers. A truly excellent finished garment begins with an excellent pattern. The very same patterns that are used daily in our studio to create our lovely church vestments are available for your own personal use.
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So begin your next church vestment sewing project with the end in mind - that perfect finished garment. It all starts with a great pattern!
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Please shop our complete line of church vestment sewing patterns for your next project!
\n\n
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At Ecclesiastical Sewing, we want to come alongside those who desire to sew liturgical vestments for their clergy, and items for their churches and sanctuaries. Our books and patterns provide the details you need for crafting your clergy stoles, priest chasubles, custom stoles, and many more fabric items. You will enjoy browsing vestment patterns, priest stole patterns and other creative varieties. We also allow you to choose the colors to design and create your own custom stoles, chasubles, copes, hoods, or paraments. Skip to Collection
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\n","publicationCount":11,"availablePublicationCount":11,"productsManuallySortedCount":92,"productsAutomaticallySortedCount":0},{"id":"gid://shopify/Collection/268201885870","seo":{"title":"Embroidered Cross | Cross Embroidery Appliques + Cross Patches (Files)","description":null},"title":"Crosses | Religious Embroidery Designs","handle":"crosses-religious-embroidery-designs","ruleSet":{"rules":[{"column":"TYPE","relation":"CONTAINS","condition":"Crosses | Religious Embroidery Designs"}],"appliedDisjunctively":true},"sortOrder":"MANUAL","updatedAt":"2024-10-24T16:45:27Z","description":"Crosses | Religious Embroidery Designs Browse a wide selection of religious embroidered crosses, cross stitches, appliques, and other digital machine embroidery files for religious embroidery designs. Also browse our selection of Applique Designs related to crosses and other religious and church embroidery symbols and events.","storefrontId":"gid://shopify/Collection/268201885870","productsCount":26,"templateSuffix":"","descriptionHtml":"
Crosses | Religious Embroidery Designs
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Browse a wide selection of religious embroidered crosses, cross stitches, appliques, and other digital machine embroidery files for religious embroidery designs.
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Also browse our selection of Applique Designs related to crosses and other religious and church embroidery symbols and events.
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Dupioni Silk Fabric - Premium Liturgical Fabrics & Church Linens
Beautiful dupioni silk fabric by the yard and in dozens of colors, perfect for any place of worship and ecclesiastical style. We offer only premium quality dupioni silk fabrics that are soft yet still strong.
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European Imported Tapestries, Liturgical Fabric, Lace Trims and More!
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Ecclesiastical Fringes imported from Liturgical fabric maker in U.K. made with Rayon & other high quality materials. Perfect for trimming Vestments or Paraments
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A wide selection to add the perfect finishing touch. 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Shop Orphreys and Braids from our Church Trims & Notions Collection
Our Orphreys and Orphrey Braids by the yard are perfect for a variety of Paraments & Clergy Vestments like Priest Chasubles, Dalmatics, Tunics and Stoles.
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Iron on Cross Appliques in Metallic and Rayon Threads
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